Baju kurung: Part 2 Pattern

For many many years i have sewn baju kurung based on template copied from the previously made baju kurung. It is only recently I have learned to make the pattern properly. In fact, I have always had the intention to learn how to make a baju kurung and kebaya from a professional dressmaker. Unfortunately with me being here, the task seems impossible, but yet..... Alhamdulillah.....Somehow, Allah made it easy for me.... in which recently an opportunity arose and I was able to learn it in Belfast... kudos to my sifu; Mr Hasnan Mansor for making it possible for me to share this knowledge with you...

What do you need?
Tracing paper / brown paper
pencil
ruler

Method

Example of measurement taken in previous blog;

length of shoulder (Sh)                = 15"
Length of sleeves  (SL)               = 22"
Circumference of sleeves (CSL) = 10"
Chest (C)                                     = 34"
Waist  (W)                                   = 28"
Hip (H)                                        = 38"
Length of dress (L)                      = 29"
Length of skirt (Sk)                     = 39"

some malay terminology used in making baju kurung.

basi
kikik
pesak
leher
tangan

And here we go....


1. Mark the length of the dress on the paper. Measure from the right top end of the paper (29 inches).

2. Mark the shoulder point (Shoulder /2 = 15/2 = 7.5 inches)

3. Bring these two lines, 'shoulder' and 'length of the dress' together.

4. Mark Chest/4 - 1 inch on the shoulder line. C/4 - 1 inch = 34 /4 - 1 inch = 7.5 inch

5. Create a line on the level of C/4 - 1 inch using the formula Chest/4 + 1 inch = 34/4 + 1 inch = 8.5 inch.

6. Create a horizontal line from the ' dress length' using a formula Hip/4 + 2 inches = 38/4 + 2 = 11.5 inches.

7. Create pesak by joining the  (C/4 + 1 inch) line to the (H/4 + 2 inches) line.

8. Mark the sleeve point by measuring from the shoulder point; 22 inches.

9. Create the sleeve width by using the formula, CSL/2 = 10/2 = 5 inches.

10. Draw a line from the end of CSL/2 to the C/4 + 1 inch.

11. Create a curve at the end of the dress using the curve ruler. Bring down the length of the dress by 1 inch.

12. Draw kekek  3 inches x 3 inches.

Creating leher is the most challenging part of baju kurung. However I will try to make it as simple as i can.... and hopefully you will find it easy insya-Allah...

1. create 3inches x 3 inches box at the right upper corner of the baju kurung pattern.

2. Create a quadrangle within the square with border 1 inch away from the upper, left and lower side of the square.

3. on another section of brown paper, draw 3 inches x 3 inches square to create template for leher.

4. Mark  "x" ; 1/4 inch from the  right upper end of the square.

5. Mark 'x' ; 1/2 inch away from the right lower end of the square.

6. Create a quadrangle within the square with border 1 inch away from the upper, left and lower side of the square.

7.  Draw a 'C' line ( does not need to be perfect though) from both of the 'x' points.

8. Draw a  4 inches straight line from the end of the 'C' line.

9. Finally, create a border around the neckline.

Yeay.... the pattern is now ready to be cut....